Microplane magic

One of the essential tools in my kitchen is a microplane.  They come in multiple forms (e.g., zesters, graters, shavers) and shapes (long and narrow, fat and short, upright, hand-held, etc.).  I have two long and narrow ones now - one zester and one grater.  The microplane zester is just amazing compared to what came before it.  On the old zesters most of what came off was mush and half the zest was left on the implement - let alone the not infrequent scraping of skin on the zester itself.  With a microplane zester virtually all of the zest slides right off and in the perfect miniscule small gratings.  You still have to be careful to avoid shearing off knuckle skin, but like a sharp knife, you have to use so little pressure that as long as your fingers are out of the way, you are much less likely to hurt yourself than with the old implements.

For a fascinating read on how the microplane came to be a kitchen implement, go to this New York Times article.  To sum up, it seems the microplane was really meant for to be a rasp used on a hacksaw frame for woodworking, but found its way into the kitchen and many a cook's heart.  While the Grace Manufacturing company may not be excited about producing a kitchen gadget, I am indebted to them and I wouldn't want to live without one. Do you remember the lime zest you need for making the killer margaritas I mentioned in a past post? The microplane is the only way to go.  Your wrists, knuckles, and fingertips will thank you.

Roasted Garlic and Bay Scallops

 

Ever had one of those appetizers you want to eat again and again?  There is something about roasted garlic that brings me back to a recipe.  It has a creaminess and  soft mellow sweetness that goes with so many things.  This recipe for roasted garlic and bay scallops capitalizes on the garlic by enhancing the creaminess with real cream but cuts it with just enough lemon to perfectly balance the flavors.  The sauce lingers on the tongue tempting you to lick the dish.  I hope you get an opportunity to enjoy this dish.  The original version came from a Food & Wine magazine years ago.

Ingredients

• 1 head garlic
• 3 Tablespoons olive oil
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 Tablespoons butter
• 1/4 cup shallots, minced
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 1 pinch saffron
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon old bay seasoning
• 3/4 pound bay scallops
• 1 Tablespoon lemon juice
• salt & pepper, to taste

Cut garlic head in half horizontally, place bottom half and pieces from top half on a square of foil large enough to wrap up into a bundle.  Drizzle olive oil over exposed garlic cloves. Lay the sprigs of thyme over the top and season with salt and pepper.  Wrap the foil up around the garlic and seal so the steam stays in the package. Bake in 350° F oven for 35 minutes.  Remove and cool to room temperature.  Discard the thyme, squeeze the roasted garlic out of the skin and mash into a paste.

Heat cream and pinch of saffron together until the edges of cream  just begin to bubble.  Take off heat add roasted garlic and stir until combined.

Saute shallots in butter over low heat until tender.  Add wine and reduce by half. Add scallops and cook about 1 minute.  Add cream/saffron/garlic mixture, sugar, and old bay seasoning (or Lawry's or some other seafood seasoning).  Cook another minute.  Be very careful not to over cook the scallops.  If necessary, remove scallops and continue to cook sauce until desired consistency.  Take off heat, add lemon juice.  Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.  Sprinkle with chopped parsley or chives for garnish. (Tip for cutting up chives - use sharp kitchen shears and snip rather than cutting them with a knife.)

Serve with crusty french bread and a crisp white wine.  If you find the perfect wine for this, let me know!  We've had some good ones with it, but haven't found the perfect one yet.

Books for Cooks

I've had a lot of cookbooks over the years.  I've probably gotten rid of more than most people ever own.  You won't be surprised to hear me say that I love cookbooks.  My kitchen has peninsula with a wall of cookbooks.  I am often asked if I cook from them all. My husband would say no, but I would hedge my answer.  I may not follow an exact recipe from a cookbook but they provide great inspiration and generate lots of ideas. I do have to admit that I often prefer cookbooks with pictures, but there are a few exceptions of good ones that have none (e.g., The Silver Palate Cookbook).

What do I look for in a cookbook?  Something that is easy to read, well-organized structure, at least one recipe I wouldn't have thought of on my own and want to make, and creative (e.g., InterCourses).  My pet peeve is recipes that refer to multiple sub-recipes somewhere else in the book.  I just tossed out a book because of that.  A little is ok, but recipe after recipe where it's just references to other recipes makes me want to rip the book apart.

So, here are a few cookbooks that top my list of must haves. I've got more, of course, these are just a few in no particular order -

The Joy of Cooking - of course.  A basic for anyone.  I use it for reference and basics.

InterCourses - seriously, this is a fun cookbook and the perfect bridal shower gift! It isn't overflowing with recipes, but the photos are gorgeous and the few items I've made from it are outstanding.

Martha Stewart's Hors D'Oeuvres Handbook - I know, I say Martha and you cringe.  It's ok, this one's a keeper.  This one has great photos that are essential for getting the presentation idea juice going.

Two Fat Ladies  - I love the old television series (now showing on the Cooking channel) and cookbooks.  Not that I cook from much from these, but they delight me and evoke fond memories of my days in London at The Cordon Bleu Cookery School.

One of the best wedding gifts I was ever given was an old Sunset cookbook that my friend had used throughout her life.  She had annotated every recipe she had cooked with the date, maybe the weather or the occasion, and a few comments.  I treasure this cookbook more than any other and carry on the same practice, which may someday result in my giving one to a dear friend getting married.

My Favorite Winter Cocktail

Summer is on the way so why am I posting about my favorite winter cocktail? Well, I guess I'm just as happy drinking it any time as in the winter, but in the winter it's my go to drink.  Why, you ask? Maybe it's the beautiful bronze color or maybe it's the warm licorice aroma that permeates my mouth.  I hope you find it as enjoyable as I do and you have a partner willing to make it for you any time.

Sazerac - America's First Cocktail

Ingredients

• 1/4 teaspoon Pernod (or Absinthe)
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon Peychaud's bitters
• Dash of Angostura bitters
• 1 Tablespoon water
• 2 ounces bourbon or rye (or a blend of the two)
• Lemon peel for garnish

Mix the sugar, bitters, Pernod and water in a cocktail shaker.  Stir until sugar is dissolved.  Add ice and bourbon and then shake.  Strain into a cocktail glass (rock or martini).  Serve over ice or in a chilled glass.  Rub the lemon peel around the lip of the glass and toss in.

Makes 1 serving.

Olive Bread

Life doesn't get much better than when you have rich olive bread to go along with a phenomenal bottle of red wine, good friends and a little herb butter or chèvre.  This is an old recipe from Sunset Magazine, circa 1985.  Nowadays you can get amazing olives to substitute for the regular old canned black olives and green olives with pimento that I first used.  I highly recommend experimenting with a variety.  Today I made it with three different olives: Kalamatas, oil-cured black olives, and green olives stuffed with citrus peel.  Next time I plan on making it with herbed oil-cured black olives and garlic-stuffed green olives.  Today we tried it with chèvre coated with tarragon and pink peppercorns, goat cheese and sheep's feta blended with herbed sun-dried tomatoes, and butter with smoked paprika and lemon zest.  We couldn't come to consensus on which topping was the best, but everyone agreed it was delicious on its own.

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 teaspoons dried yeast (1 package)
• 3/4 warm water (should feel warm when you put your finger in it)
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup butter
• 4 large eggs
• 5 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 cups pitted olives (mixture of black and green - green can be stuffed with almost anything, my most recent favorite is citrus peel)
• 1 egg yolk

Preparation

In a small bowl, combine yeast and warm water; let stand 5 minutes. In a large mixer bowl blend the sugar with the butter until creamy.  Add eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition.  Stir in yeast mixture.

To blend with mixer and knead by hand:  add 2 1/2 cups flour and beat at medium speed for 10 minutes.  Stir in 1 1/2 cups more flour until moistened.  Scrape dough out a lightly floured board and knead, adding flour to prevent sticking until dough is smooth, about 7 minutes.  Plop dough in a lightly greased bowl and turn dough over so that the top is greased.

To knead with a hook:  add 4 1/2 cups flour to yeast mixture.  Beat at medium speed until dough pulls cleanly from side of bowl, about 10 minutes; adding the additional 1/2 cup flour a little at a time, if needed.  Remove dough hook and scrape dough down into bowl.

Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and let stand in a warm place until dough doubles in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Drain olives well if needed, then pat dry.

Turn dough out on a lightly floured board and knead to expel air; add flour to prevent sticking if needed.  Pat dough into a 14 to 16 inch square.  Scatter olives evenly over the dough and press in lightly.  Roll up dough to enclose olives and place seam side down on a greased 12x15" baking sheet.  Tuck open ends of dough under to make a smooth surface.  Pat loaf to flatten and shape it into an oval, about 1 3/4" thick.  Cover with plastic wrap or clean kitchen towel and let stand in a warm place to rise, about 30 minutes.

Uncover loaf and brush with egg yolk.  Bake in a 325 degree oven until richly browned, about 45 minutes.  Transfer to a rack to cool for at least 10 minutes.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 1 loaf, about 3 pounds.

Potential herb butters to use - let unsalted butter sit at room temperature until soft.  Add 1 Tablespoon finely chopped herbs and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt for every 1/2 cup butter.  You can use a single herb such as rosemary or a blend such as the classic sage, rosemary and thyme (yes, just like in the song).  I like basil and rosemary by themselves, but adding things like lemon zest and/or smoked paprika add some additional excitement that is hard to pass up.

My Favorite Summer Cocktail - #1

Well, I couldn't let it go too long before sharing my favorite summer cocktails.  I have four.  I'll make you wait to find out what the other three are, but here is the first.

The Margarita - this is not just any old margarita, this is a humdinger.  If you like the taste of margaritas that come from pre-mixed packages this recipe is not for you.  This is also not for the hurried - you also need to leave yourself at least 6 hours to prepare it.

The original recipe came from Steven Raichlen's Barbecue Bible, although he took it from Rick Bayless' Frontera Grill (haven't been, but would love to go) in Chicago.  The original recipe said it served eight, but well, not really.  At least not in our house with our willingness to imbibe!  It makes eight drinks but serves more like four.

Ingredients

• 1 3/4 cup tequila (we often use silver, but you can use any grade you prefer)
• 1/4 cup orange liqueur (Triple Sec, Cointreau...)
• 1 cup water
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup freshly-squeezed lime juice
• 1+ teaspoon freshly and finely grated lime zest
• 1/4 cup coarse sea salt
• 8 lime wedges for garnish
• 3-4 cups ice cubes for serving

Preparation

In the morning on the day that you plan to serve the margaritas, combine the tequila, orange liqueur, water, lime juice and zest, and sugar in a pitcher. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then let the mixture steep in the refrigerator, covered, for 6 to 8 hours. Don't be tempted to skimp on the time.

Spread the salt in a shallow dish. Rub the rims of 4-8 margarita or martini glasses with the cut side of a lime and dip each glass rim in the salt, shaking off the excess. Add the ice to glasses and then strain the sublime margarita mixture into the glasses. Drop a lime wedge in each glass and serve immediately.

The glass prep is pretty obvious, but I've included it for completeness—just don’t forget to strain the lime zest out. We tend to serve over ice in the glass rather than straight up or blended. We've never tried blenderizing, so if you try that let me know how it turns out!  The key elements are the lime zest and the steeping time.

My favorite summer cocktails - #1

Well, I couldn't let it go too long before sharing my favorite summer cocktails.  I have four.  I'll make you wait to find out what the other three are, but here is the first.

The Margarita - this is not just any old margarita, this is a humdinger.  If you like the taste of margaritas that come from pre-mixed packages this recipe is not for you.  This is also not for the hurried - you also need to leave yourself at least 6 hours to prepare it.

The original recipe came from Steven Raichlen's Barbecue Bible, although he took it from Rick Bayless' Frontera Grill (haven't been, but would love to go) in Chicago.  The original recipe said it served eight, but well, not really.  At least not in our house with our willingness to imbibe!  It makes eight drinks but serves more like four.

Ingredients

• 1 3/4 cup tequila (we often use silver, but you can use any grade you prefer)
• 1/4 cup orange liqueur (Triple Sec, Cointreau...)
• 1 cup water
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup freshly-squeezed lime juice
• 1+ teaspoon freshly and finely grated lime zest
• 1/4 cup coarse sea salt
• 8 lime wedges for garnish
• 3-4 cups ice cubes for serving

Preparation

In the morning on the day that you plan to serve the margaritas, combine the tequila, orange liqueur, water, lime juice and zest, and sugar in a pitcher. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then let the mixture steep in the refrigerator, covered, for 6 to 8 hours. Don't be tempted to skimp on the time.

Spread the salt in a shallow dish. Rub the rims of 4-8 margarita or martini glasses with the cut side of a lime and dip each glass rim in the salt, shaking off the excess. Add the ice to glasses and then strain the sublime margarita mixture into the glasses. Drop a lime wedge in each glass and serve immediately.

The glass prep is pretty obvious, but I've included it for completeness—just don’t forget to strain the lime zest out. We tend to serve over ice in the glass rather than straight up or blended. We've never tried blenderizing, so if you try that let me know how it turns out!  The key elements are the lime zest and the steeping time.

Roasted Goodness

Up until this time cauliflower was probably my least favorite vegetable - I'd see it on vegetable platters and found it mildly palatable when coated with enough peanut dip, but as a steamed vegetable?  No way.  Not being a fan of "cheese" sauce I hadn't found a good method to make this vegetable shine - watery and dull was my most frequent experience.  Answer found.  Almost any vegetable roasted in the oven is heaven. Cauliflower is even better than that and my current favorite roasty.  Throw in a little garlic and it will fill your mouth with savory yet sweet fragrance and a creamy goodness with the slightest bit of crunch.  Easy, easy recipe, too.

Ingredients

• 1 head cauliflower cut into flowerets
• 2 Tablespoons olive oil
• Sea salt & pepper
• As many peeled garlic cloves as desired

Preparation

Heat oven to 425 degrees (use 375 degrees convection roast if you have that setting). Toss the flowerets with the olive oil in a 13x9 baking dish (glass or ceramic). I tend to put the olive oil in the baking dish to start and throw the flowerets in and the toss until coated.  Messier hands, but it makes sure the dish is adequately oiled to prevent sticking, although I doubt that is really a problem. Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper.

Bake in oven for 15 minutes.  Add in garlic cloves and toss together before returning to the oven for another 15-20 minutes.

Remove and eat.  Easy and mouth-watering.

Gra Gra Gra Granola

Yes, sing along like you are rocking to the tune Lola by the Kinks. Or do you remember Lola Granola from Bloom County? Either are fun things to start your morning.  Do you need to eat better in the morning while rocking out or reading comic strips from long ago?  If you are not a toast eater (see my post on Bread the old-fashioned way) I highly recommend granola with a little milk or better yet yogurt.  Every month or so I make a big batch of granola - it keeps!  I get out my big roasting pan, jar of honey and the requisite peanut butter.  You see, peanut butter is a staple of every breakfast in our household.  Peanut butter on toast, on french toast, on waffles...you get the idea. 

Now, on to the recipe, which originally came from Sweet Desserts - a cookbook for diabetics that I'm not sure you can find anymore.  I have adapted it over the years, but the basic recipe is the following: 4 cups of rolled oats to a 1/2 cup liquid sweetener (fruit syrup, honey, agave syrup, etc.)  and a 1/2 cup peanut butter (almond or other nut butters would probably work, too).  Heat the sweetener and peanut butter together over low heat.  Stir into oats and place in a 9x13 and bake at 250 degrees for an hour stirring every 15-20 minutes.  Let cool slightly and add dried fruits of your choosing and let it cool.  I dare you to keep from nibbling while it cools!  I can never resist.

Now what I do is make at least double that much and add interesting rolled grains rather than just oats.  Cut back the oats and add rolled barley, rye or wheat.  I tend to keep it about 2/3 oats, though.  I also add things like flax seed, oat bran, and/or wheat germ.  I also add something fun, light and  such as puffed rice or cheerios.  My current fruits of choice are dried blueberries, cranberries (the orange-scented ones from Trader Joe's are great), raisins, golden raisins, chopped candied ginger (!), and currants.

My favorite pots & pans

People often ask what kitchen equipment I like.  I can be picky when it comes to particular items.  Pots and pans are important.

I have use for three brands of cookware, one inexpensive and the other two not so much.  For steaming, poaching and boiling I am perfectly comfortable the cooper bottom pans of Revere.  These were the staple of my childhood and I see no reason to exchange these pans for anything else. Using a much more expensive brand for these cooking methods is overkill for my purposes.

Now, if you want to make sauces or curds or sear and roast meats you need something quite different.  If only I could give it more stars, All-Clad is my brand of choice for these activities.  Most of my pots and pans come from the All-Clad stainless or LTD lines and I won't use a different brand frying pan.

If you want to make stews, cassoulets, and braised items, I am a big fan of Le Creuset.  If you can tolerate their weight, they make excellent pots for these cooking methods AND they come in fun colors!  All of these brands, used properly and for the proper cooking method, will last a lifetime.