Pear Versatility

Pears come in many sizes and varieties and fall is peak season for them. Bartletts are probably the most common ones encountered in the grocery store and they are wonderful.  However, if you can find ripe Comice pears you will experience something completely different and even more wonderful.  I first came across these in Europe and after many years have now found them at peak season in our grocery stores.  They are fleeting, though, so if you find them, buy them.  The Comice pears I found yesterday at the store were labeled "French Butter" pears (the sticker still said "comice") - they are somewhat squatter, sometimes smaller, and have less of a neck than other types.  At peak ripeness they will have a greener skin than a Bartlett, but they will also have a yellow hue, give ever so slightly when touched, and smell like a pear.  They have a beautiful perfume that accompanies a very juicy, soft fruit - all of which are more pronounced than with any other variety I have eaten.  The best things to do with these pears are to eat them alone or with a piquant goat cheese that complements their perfume and juiciness.

If you have Bartletts on hand, here is a delicious dessert or breakfast dish to make, taken from an old Food & Wine article (circa 1996).

Maple Pear Pancake

Ingredients

• 1 cup milk
• 1 egg
• 3 Tablespoons butter
• 1 cup all-purpose flour (or 1/4 whole wheat, 3/4 all-purpose)
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 2 Tablespoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 Bartlett pears, peeled and sliced
• 1/2 cup maple syrup (use real maple syrup)
• 2 teaspoons lemon juice

Preparation

Heat oven to 350 ° F.

Mix the milk and egg together, and then whisk in 2 Tablespoons melted butter.  Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together and whisk into the milk mixture.  Let stand for 10 minutes. Letting it stand is important to the final texture of the pancake as it allows the flour to fully incorporate with the liquid.

In a non-reactive oven-proof skillet, cook the pears, 1 Tablespoon of the butter, and 1/4 cup of syrup over high heat until caramelized.  Remove from heat and add 2 teaspoons lemon juice and the remaining 1/4 cup syrup.

Whisk the batter once or twice and pour it over pears.  Bake for 15 minutes, or until a tester inserted in the center comes out clean.  Invert pancake onto a platter and serve with additional maple syrup.

Serves 4.