Thursday, August 4, 2011

Dinner for 12

I've been asked how to plan a multi-course menu for a large dinner party while still spending most of your time visiting with your guests rather than in the kitchen. It's not easy, but it can be done.  The key is lots of prep and small pyrex dishes.  Pyrex dishes, you ask?  Yes, you'll see them over and over again.

Let's say you want to have 12-16 people over for a dinner.  The first thing to deal with is the menu.  Will it be a 3-course, 5-course, 7-course? Let's assume a 7-course, just to make it challenging.  You can scale back as necessary.  In planning a menu of that length, I usually stick to the following order:
     
  • First course: Appetizer
  • Second course: Soup
  • Third course: Fish
  • Main course: Not fish ;)
  • Salad course
  • Dessert course
  • Cheese course
Almost everything in each course should be preparable ahead of time with little adjustment in seasonings necessary at serving time. So, get your recipe books out and start searching! A few things I might serve in each course would be:
  • For the first (appetizer) course - because you are serving fish and another meat in the third and main courses, I would start with something light and let the meal progress to a crescendo at the main course and then back down again.  Here you could serve a trio of bruschetta on individual plates - something you'll have to prepare close to your guests arriving, but not difficult.  Make one bruschetta with purchased pâté, one caprese (fresh tomatoes, a little chopped buffalo mozzarella, chiffonade of basil, balsamic vinegar, sea salt, freshly ground pepper), one with purchased tapanade or prepare a duxelle mixture (a divine mushroom mixture - I'll post about this soon).  Garnish each with a unique herb (pâté - possibly use a sprig of fresh rosemary, the caprese of course garnish with a basil leaf, the tapanade or duxelle perhaps a small sprig of thyme) - all chosen and prepared ahead of time and waiting in a small pyrex dish to be applied just before serving.
  • For the soup course - again because you want to build complexity and depth leading up to the main course, I would recommend a lightly creamed leek soup.  Soups can always be prepared ahead and are often better that way.  Then re-heat, ladle into bowls, and garnish with chopped fresh chives (which you will have previously prepared and stored in a small pyrex bowl).
  • For the fish course - I might go with a lightly poached fish (salmon, halibut) served chilled in aspic or served chilled with a lemon cream sauce. Garnish with fresh dill or chervil (sprigs that you've already selected and prepared, stored in a small pyrex bowl).  If you have the space, plate your fish course and keep it chilled in the refrigerator.  Garnish as you serve - never garnish ahead.
  • For the main course - I might go with Chicken with Figs and Apricots (see recipe below and double it for 12) served with couscous.  While this dish requires one step in the middle of cooking (set your timer and carry it with you), it is worth it if your guests like meat and fruit in one dish.  If not, find a dish that can be cooked in the oven for the length of time you expect your previous courses to take so you can put it in as everyone sits down to the first course.
  • For the salad course - now you want to start backing off.  No heavy salad dressings.  Try a light, lemony dressing.  I would highly recommend the Tuscan Kale salad with Pecorino from Oct 24, 2007 in the Dining section of the New York Times (for those NYT subscribers that have access to the online archives).  I am going to write a whole blog post for this recipe.  It is so amazing, as was the article about it!  Grate extra pecorino for garnishing and keep covered in a small pyrex bowl.
  • For the dessert course in a 7-course menu - I recommend something cold, fruity and light.  Perhaps a chiffon pie that is topped with a fresh berry and whipped cream sauce before serving.
  • For the cheese course - find 3 or 4 of your favorite cheeses and let people help themselves. Depending on the cheeses, you could also include some marcona almonds, honey, dried apricots or cranberries, but not really necessary.  Some people can't seem to eat cheese without bread, so be sure to include a little baguette for those who want it.  If you go for bold, heavy cheeses, it's the optimal time to pull out a Sauternnes, Ice Wine, or Muscat.  They go so well with the pungent cheeses (see my blog post about a delicious sheep cheese).  You can have this entire plate ready to go ahead of time, just make sure you pull it out in time for it to warm up to about 65 degrees or so before serving.
After all that cooking, I hope you have someone to help clean up!

A few notes - another approach to creating a menu is to pick one dish you want to make and then build out the menu to match it.  I tend to stick to cuisines within a broad region rather than crossing continents.  Fusion cuisine, while good,  can be tricky in the home kitchen for multi-course meals.

Chicken with Figs and Apricots

This recipe originally came from the Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook.  I've adapted a few things so that you spend less time in the kitchen.

Ingredients
  • 2.5 - 3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 3-4 pieces each
  • 6 large garlic cloves, finely  minced
  • 1/2 Tablespoon dried thyme
  • 1 Tablespoon ground cumin
  • 1 Tablespoon ground ginger
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 4 teaspoons green peppercorns packed in water - drained
  • 1 cup pitted kalamata olives (or your favorite pitted olive)
  • 1 1/2 cups dried apricots (I use the Blenheim variety)
  • 1 cup dried small figs - if large, cut into pieces
  • 1/4 cup brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup Madeira
  • 1 cup large pecan pieces, toasted
  • Grated zest of 2 lemons
Preparation

A day before serving, combine chicken, garlic, thyme, cumin, ginger, salt, vinegar, oil, peppercorns, olives, apricots, and figs in a large bowl or ziploc bag.  Marinate covered in the refrigerator overnight.  Remove the bowl from the refrigerator and arrange chicken pieces in a single layer in a large shallow pan(s).  Spoon the marinade mixture evenly over the chicken.  Sprinkle with the sugar and pour the Madeira, cover pan, and return to the refrigerator.  One hour before cooking, remove the pan from the refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees,  cover the pan with foil and bake for 15 minutes.  (Heat the oven just before you serve the first course and, depending on your guests and how leisurely you are planning on dinner, either just before the soup course or fish course pop it into the oven - use your timer to remind you to get up and remove the foil and then again to remove from the oven.)  Remove the foil, baste the chicken, and bake another 15 minutes.  It can rest up to 5-10 minutes after removing from the oven, if you need the time.  Serve on a bed of couscous and garnish with the pre-toasted pecans and lemon zest before serving.

Serves 6.

Peter - happy 20th anniversary to you and your wife!  I hope this post isn't too late to be helpful!

Let me know if you have questions, I'm sure I haven't explained everything!

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